the famous seige atAlEsia
The site of this ancient siege occupies the hill above the more modern town of Alise-Sainte-Reine and is the site of the famous siege of 52 BC in which Julius Caesar defeated the Gallic confederation of tribes led by Vercingétorix. After a surprise Gallic attack earned Caesar’s displeasure, he pursued the Gauls and after several skirmishes the two armies faced each other at Alésia. Realising that a full frontal assault on such a heavily fortified hill-fort would have been suicidal, Caesar decided to place the camp under siege, and the ensuing conflict remains one of the classic examples of siege warfare and circumvallation. As the siege continued and food and supplies became scarce within the fort, the Gauls decided to send out their women and children, hoping that Caesar would grant them safe passage – he did not. Seeing their families trapped and starving in the no-man’s land between the two camps sapped what was left of the Gauls' spirit and after a number of engagements in which the Gauls suffered heavy losses, Vercingétorix chose to surrender in order to save what remained of his people. Many of the surviving Gauls were taken into slavery and Vercingétorix himself was marched to Rome where he was imprisoned in the Tullianum for six years until Caesar’s triumphant procession, whereon he was strangled. The site of the battle has been contested by historians over the years and Emperor Napoleon III ordered a four year programme of excavations in order to resolve the debate. The remains of both the Roman fortifications and the Gallic earthworks are still there and these and a museum containing many artefacts are open to visitors from Spring until October. The huge bronze statue of Vercingétorix commissioned by Napoleon III dominates the hill and the views are breathtaking in all seasons.
Other Guides
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- Côte-d'Or Travel Guide
- Burgundy Travel Guide
- France Travel Guide
the châteaux at
Epoisses
Famous for its châteaux and its cheese-making, this feudal estate is complete with 13th century church and graceful dovecotes. The castle itself is moated and dates from the 15th century, with several wings of the original building destroyed during the Revolution. Within the walls, a gallery displays portraits of the last four Dukes of Burgundy while the library houses letters from the lively and spirited Madame de Sévigné, whose influence on literary letter writers is widely acknowledged and admired. No visit to Époisses however would be complete without a visit to the famous local fromagerie to sample the delights of Burgundy’s most famous cheese. The Berthaut family revived the tradition of cheese-making started by the Cistercian monks in the 15th century and produce a rich, creamy cheese steeped in marc brandy which counted Napoleon himself as a fan.
The Abbey of
Fontenay
The Abbaye de Fontenay was founded by St. Bernard in 1119 and is located to the west of Montbard. It was awarded the status of World Heritage Site in 1981, and it’s easy to see why. Named after the many springs in the surrounding valley, the abbey provides a wonderful snap-shot of life for the Cistercian monks who lived here until the last monks left in 1790 following the Revolution. The abbey then enjoyed a brief spell as a paper mill until it was bought in 1820 by Elie Montgolfier, whose surname is best known in connection with the invention of the hot air balloon. The grounds remained in the Montgolfier family for the following century until Eduard Aynard, a son-in-law of the Montgolfiers decided to restore the abbey to its former medieval glory. The fountain may seem familiar to anyone who’s seen Cyrano de Bergerac, and indeed the final scenes of the film were shot here in 1991.
wine lovers
Beaune
Resting in the heart of the Cote d’Or and its vineyards, the town of Beaune is a wine-lover’s paradise. It was the home of the Dukes of Burgundy before they moved to Dijon, and there still exists a rivalry between the two towns, but there is more than enough to delight visitors to both. The imposing Hôtel-Dieu in Beaune is certainly an impressive sight which draws crowds of tourists during the summer months. Built in the 15th century as a charitable hospital, the sombre façade visible from the street demonstrates the multi-coloured roofing so typical of the region and is topped by a wonderful Gothic spire. It ceased to be a hospital in 1971, but the Grand Salle still contains beds that are either originals or exact copies of them in this immense hall with its eye-catching roof. Among the other rooms open to the public are the kitchens and the pharmacy although the highlight of the trip is surely the magnificent altar-piece The Last Judgement by the Flemish painter Roger van der Weyden commissioned by the founder of the Hôtel-Dieu, Nicolas Rolin and completed in 1451.
Regional capital of
Dijon
The regional capital of Burgundy is synonymous with the wonderful mustard produced here, and of course the delicious crème de cassis which when added to a white burgundy (usually a Bourgogne aligoté) makes another regional speciality, a Kir, or if you’re feeling extravagant and splash out on champagne, a Kir royal. There is however plenty more on offer than gastronomic delights, for example the rich abundance of the multicoloured roof tiles whose eye-catching presence is one of the city’s many architectural delights. The crypt of the Cathédrale St-Bénigne is all that remains of this 11th century abbey but still well worth a visit, as is the nearby Archaeological Museum. If you’re looking for wisdom and happiness, a trip to the church of Notre Dame in the Rue de la Chouette is a must - the small owl carved on an outside pillar is believed to bring both to all those who stroke it. A short walk from Notre Dame is the splendour of the Palais des Ducs et des États de Bourgogne which houses the most significant collection of paintings outside Paris in the Museé de Beaux Arts. Many of the paintings were taken from houses of nobility during the Revolution and you can see works by Monet, Manet, de Staël among many others. The banqueting hall in the main Palais gives you some idea of how food and drink became so important to the Dijonais!